Almost done ...

So it’s goodbye Tabuk and hello Riyadh. With just a few weeks to Ramadan, Kariem and I left Tabuk for Riyadh, nicknamed the gem of the desert. During the day the city seems dull and lethargic but at night it comes alive with bright lights and vibrant colours.  

There is certainly a whole lot more to see and do in Riyadh than in Tabuk, with tourist destinations like Kingdom Tower and The Diplomatic Quarters, to name but two.

The academic year in Tabuk came to an end in May and the academic staff made their way to Riyadh for summer school.  But since this falls within the heart of summer and the beginning of Ramadan there were few, if any, students.

Women and men still queue separately for services, but women do not have to wear a head covering in pubic (especially foreign women).  This comes as a bit of a relief as it is swelteringly hot in Riyadh with temperatures reaching up to 45 degrees during the day and 35 degrees at night.

Unlike back home where Ramadan for the most part is a quiet affair, in Saudi it is high profile.  The entire country begins fasting at the same hour every day for 30 days.  No one is seen smoking, eating or drinking from sunrise to sunset. During the day virtually everyone is out of sight.  Riyadh turns into a ghost town and for the unseasoned expat this can be terribly cumbersome in relation to business. At night, families flock to the city center; shopping malls and restaurants, a welcome break from the day’s siesta and fasting.

 As a special treat, Carol and I visited Kingdom Tower; a majestic structure measuring about 300 metres above ground level.  This skyscraper, a 99-story high-rise building, was modeled after the Shanghai World Financial Centre and Tuntex Sky Tower in China depicting a distinctive semi-oval hole in the middle.A trip to the Skybridge on the 99^th floor will set one back a mere SR35 where the bright lights of Riyadh are at your feet.  This is a must see for anyone travelling to the city – somehow brings back memories of Carlton Tower in Johannesburg.J

Getting there is altogether another ball-game, as taxi drivers may only be acquainted with the Arabic name for Kingdom Tower.  

For the most part they don’t seem to know where much of anything is since they can never find our apartment (I think more in the interest of making a quick buck off an unsuspecting foreigner, but by now I’ve wised up to their wiles.   

Not very much longer to go before I return home and I’m looking forward to it. No more being hot and bothered J I’ll pack my bags and say my goodbyes to the Kingdom and carry in my heart a piece of the desert and the Red Sea (two sights I think are really very beautiful).

Ciao for now – may the force be with you.

IN THE ROYAL LAND -- definale

I left from OR Tambo in September 2012:  

Johannesburg/Dubai/Riyadh and then on to Tabuk.

I had quite a long layover between flights but took the time to refresh and catch up on some sleep at the hotel which the company arranged for me.

From RSA to KSA.

So I am here! To put it mildly, Saudi Arabia gives new meaning to the term “culture shock” in terms of culture and social norms.  As many of you may already know,   women   have very little, if any, freedom of movement here and are not allowed to drive. 

We also have to dress conservatively in public. 

Since Saudi Arabia is a country governed strictly by the Islamic rules, it is generally forbidden for women to show any part of the body.Hence a group called hai'a or Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice, whose officers (muttawa)  patrol public areas and generally have to correct the behaviour of those who they deem are not conforming to the rules. 

If a woman is not wearing the head covering (hijab), they will point it out and the woman will quickly obey, so as to avoid further trouble.  I arrived into this new world order and decided I will never ever defy the muttawa -- I'm scared stiff of them and of  incarceration. 

I work at Tabuk University which is big but surprisingly the facilities are rather mediocre compared to ours.   Their Cafeteria  is dubbed Crapeteria" - which speaks for itself.   :) 

I live in a quaint little city called Tabuk.  I regret not having opted for Riyadh or Jeddah which are purported to have more western amenities.

Compounds however, are western-styled and modern.  I currently live in an apartment which is comfortable and spacious.

We have drivers who take us everywhere  since we're not allowed out on our own. I've just not bothered to question this arrangement and quietly left matters as they are.

Developing a social life is near impossible.  The only social activity for us is ex-pat get-togethers in the compound.

There’s not much we could be doing on our own other than shopping, going to the dessert (which I loved and was the only highlight so far). Also, we have to wear a scarf (hijab) a black cloak (abaya) and a face veil (niqab). The niqab, however, is optional for foreign women. Being a "bushy", wearing a hijab is very welcome,  especially on those bad hair days.   The pics will show what this sedentary existence is now doing to my waistline :)  We have no gyms here for women! And I have no inclination to workout on my own either.

Existence could not get emptier than this. Business hours are circumscribed by a strict adherence to the Muslim call to prayer five times a day. 

Saudi Arabia is virtually devoid of public entertainment. Thursday night which is the equivalent of our Saturday night is nothing like ours. 

I think of movies, clubs. I think of watering holes, Phuza Thursday -- and then  I look at the Saudi students and think ignorance is most definitely bliss.  Back home our students have Rags, sport, movies, clubs and so much more to look forward to and take part in.   

Restaurants have separate seating areas for single men and families (single women are not allowed in restaurants). What do you do if you’re dating and how do you get to meet the opposite sex? The difference between our weekends and weekends Saudi-style, couldn't get any starker than this.

My Saudi experience is somewhat mixed.   Some friends, who have formerly lived and worked here, although not in my field, gave unflattering reviews about the place and I looked upon them as scare-mongering. I now realise most of it is true. Yes, women have to wear an Abaya and headscarf, they are not allowed to drive, there’s not a social life to speak of, but my time here has given me the chance for introspection and reflection.

Truth be told, to be in Saudi Arabia made economic sense only, but it also turned out to be my epiphany.  Being away from family and friends is tough and I miss home terribly. 


Never in my life have I felt soooo alone. It feels like I’m on a totally different planet.   I've decided that this is my last stint of overseas teaching.  I need to put down roots and Mzansi is the place to be :)

Ciao Ciao and may the force be with you!  

I leave you with this thought:  

“Remember that wherever your heart is, 
there you will find your treasure”  
Paulo Coelho,   The Alchemist    ;)

      

          

Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika

Word had it that we couldn’t do it – but we have! What an exceptional and spectacular tournament! I’m sure Brazil will be hard pressed to eclipse this one. Unfortunately I couldn’t wait up to watch, but judging from the highlights, a truly magnificent closing ceremony and the presence of Madiba a goose bump and lump-in-the-throat moment. Well done to all the role players and we can indeed pat ourselves on the back for a job truly well done and upholding the spirit of UBUNTU!!!! Congratulations Spain – deserved 2010 World Cup Winners. Olé Olé Olé Olé. Olé Olé.

S A Rocks

May 2004. We waited with bated breath and then the unforgettable announcement.  The entire country partied and celebrated from that Friday afternoon for the entire weekend.  We were once again reminded of the euphoria of 1995 and the IRB Rugby World Cup. It’s upon us now and World Cup “feva” has gripped South Africa in earnest and I may add me as well!  With only 3 days to go to kick off, I listened to the proceedings of the United we shall Stand parade on 702 and couldn’t help but wish I were there!  Talk about being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Just listening to the bustling crowds and the vuvuzelas was exhilarating and made me rather homesick.

It’s apparent that emotions are at an all time high in South Africa and compares to none other.  Africa is not your conventional host - here things are done differently.  But I’m sure each and every soccer supporter and visitor to our sunny shores will be gripped and infected by the sporting spirit of the one and only Rainbow Nation.

 South Africa has no shortage of the funniest, most entertaining and ingenious kinds of fans the world has ever seen.

 No matter what the mood on the field, in the stands fans deliver their own form of amusement for themselves as well as for the "sane"
ones around them [albeit very few] :)

We are proud and blessed to be the first country to host the world’s most biggest and prestigious sporting showcase on African soil.   South Africans have the capacity to hope and dream and build on those dreams. We’ve worked hard and tirelessly to build/upgrade our stadiums, airports, roads and the various transport systems and they’re all looking stunning!

 

      

A toast toTata Mandela, Africa’s hero and our inspiration, and all who were involved in the successful campaign which has now culminated in this incredibly momentous occasion in 
our history.  God bless you, God Bless Africa!    Viva Madiba, Viva. Halala Halala!!!

 
I wish Bafana Bafana and all the other finalists and especially my host country, South Korea, Godspeed. 

The annals of sport will show:  
FIFA Soccer World Cup 2010 – Africa – South Africa.

I’m overcome with unbridled patriotic pride and joy and can hardly contain myself.  Tonight I’ll be joining some SA friends in Seoul to watch the opening ceremony and the matches.  Klippies, met eish, ja, met eish!